Bath installation in London
On paper, replacing a bath is a small job: disconnect two taps and a waste, lift the old one out, level the new one, connect it back up. What decides whether it stays small is everything around it — whether the new bath is the same size as the old one, whether the taps fit the holes, whether the waste lands where the pipe already runs, and, in an older London house, whether the old bath can physically get down the stairs in one piece.
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What this includes
- Like-for-like bath replacement
- Baths supplied, or fitted if you have bought your own
- Bath-to-shower conversions
- Freestanding and roll-top baths
- Taps, wastes, overflows and trap connections
- A shower fitted over the bath, with a screen
- Old cast-iron baths broken out and taken away
Worth knowing first
A little of this might mean you do not need to call us at all — we would still rather you knew it.
A like-for-like swap is the version to aim for
If the new bath is close to the same size and the taps and waste stay at the same end, most of the work is disconnecting, lifting out and rebuilding. Where it grows is at the edges. A bath even slightly shorter than the old one leaves a gap that has to be tiled or panelled, and tiles behind an old bath rarely come away cleanly. Ninja Plumbers will tell you at the quote stage which of those apply, so the making-good is priced in rather than raised with you halfway through.
Bath out, shower in
Losing the bath buys real space in a small bathroom, and a tray with a glass panel where the bath sat is a straightforward conversion. Two things are worth thinking about first. If it is the only bathroom in the property, having no bath at all can count against you when you sell, and it certainly counts with small children. And if what you really want is a level floor with no tray, that is a wet room — a bigger job involving tanking and a formed floor fall, covered on the wet rooms and walk-in showers page.
Freestanding baths ask more of the floor and the waste
A freestanding bath, full of water with somebody in it, is a serious weight concentrated in one spot. On the timber floor of a Victorian terrace that is worth checking rather than assuming. The waste is the other difference: on most freestanding baths it drops straight through the floor instead of running to the wall, so the pipework underneath has to be reached — lifting floorboards, or in a flat, working over the neighbour’s ceiling. Both are perfectly doable. Both are much easier settled before the bath is delivered.
Getting the old one out
Cast-iron baths are extraordinarily heavy and do not bend around a half-landing. In a narrow Victorian terrace or a converted flat with a tight stair, the practical answer is usually to break the bath up in the bathroom and carry it out in pieces — noisy and dusty, but a great deal safer than three people reversing down a staircase with it. We work the removal route out as part of the job rather than discovering it on the morning.
What affects the price
Fitting a bath is priced mostly on the work surrounding it rather than on the bath itself. A few points decide whether a replacement stays a modest job or grows into something closer to a partial refit.
The size of the new bath
A bath with the same length and width as the old one drops into the same space. A shorter or narrower one leaves strips of bare wall or floor to tile, board or panel, and a longer one may not fit between the walls at all.
Where the taps and waste go
Deck-mounted taps connect to the existing supplies below the bath. Wall-mounted taps need pipework chased into the wall and the wall retiled. A bath with its waste at the opposite end, or in the middle, needs the waste pipe moved to suit.
What the bath is made of
Acrylic baths are light but need a firm cradle and proper support to stop them flexing. Cast-iron and stone-resin baths are heavy to carry in and position, and on an old timber floor the load may need spreading first.
Panels, tiling and sealing
A new bath panel, a row of tiles along the new edge and a proper silicone seal finish the job. Where the old tiles crack coming off, or cannot be matched, more of the wall may need retiling than you expected.
The price is agreed before any work starts. We take card and cash.
Common questions
How long does a bath replacement take?
A straight swap for a bath of similar size is usually a day. Moving the waste, tiling a new section of wall, or getting a cast-iron bath out of a tight stairwell all add to that, and we will say so when we quote rather than afterwards.
Can you fit a bath I have bought myself?
Yes. Send the model and dimensions over beforehand so we can check it against the space and the existing waste position, and confirm whether it comes with tap holes drilled.
Do I need a whole new bathroom to change the bath?
No. Changing the bath on its own is an ordinary standalone job. If the tiles, floor, basin and toilet are all going as well, that is a refit, and the bathroom installation page covers what that involves.
Do you take the old bath away?
Yes, removal and disposal are part of the job. Cast iron goes for scrap rather than into a skip where we can manage it.
Acrylic, steel or cast iron — does it make a difference?
Yes, in how the bath feels and how it is fitted. Acrylic is light and warm to the touch, but it flexes if it is not well supported, which is what breaks seals. Enamelled steel is rigid and hard-wearing, colder at first and can chip if something heavy is dropped. Cast iron holds heat well and lasts for decades, but its weight means checking the floor and planning how to get it upstairs.
Why do you fill the bath before sealing it?
A bath settles slightly under the weight of water and whoever is in it. If the silicone goes on while it is empty, the first time the bath is filled it drops a fraction and pulls the seal away from the tiles. Filling it first, sealing while it is full and leaving it to cure keeps the seal where it will actually sit in use, and it also tests the waste and overflow for leaks.
More bathroom work we take on
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Bathroom Installation
A single fixture swap through to a full strip-out and refit, priced up front.
More on Bathroom Installation -
Shower Installation
Mixer, thermostatic and digital showers fitted — matched to the water system you actually have.
More on Shower Installation -
Shower Repair
Weak flow, wandering temperature, no hot water or a leak — diagnosed and repaired, usually without a new shower.
More on Shower Repair -
Toilet Installation
A new toilet fitted, an old one swapped, or a WC moved to somewhere it has never been.
More on Toilet Installation -
Wet Rooms & Walk-In Showers
Level-access showers and full wet rooms, with the tanking and falls that decide whether it leaks in five years or never.
More on Wet Rooms & Walk-In Showers
Need bath installation in London?
Describe the problem and give us your area, and we’ll tell you the price before anyone starts work.